JKOGI RVA
“kogi is fusion done as the perfect entry-level to korean street eats.”
If you’re like me, a relative novice to Korean food who’d like a low-stakes adventure, then look no further than Kogi in Richmond, VA. A small little shop off the corner of N 2nd St and E Marshall, this eatery really makes its name as a cute hang-out spot for the young professional snagging a quick bite to eat or college student looking for a fun, low-cost Friday night dinner with friends. Let this be the necessary disclaimer that Kogi is NOT your spot for a wholly authentic Korean experience. Instead, Kogi showcases many of the characteristics associated with Asian fusion done well.
Much of what makes Korean street food special and unique has come to Kogi. The rustic coziness of the space is reminiscent of hole-in-the-wall izakayas. Delicacies such as the Korean corn dog (deep-fried cheese filled corn dogs breaded with crispy flakes of panko) or the savory/sour kimchi pancake are only a few of the snacks one might enjoy wandering the streets of Busan brought closer to home. On the first occasion I had the pleasure of dining there I treated myself and my friends to a smatter of appetizer street foods for us all to share: bulgogi kimbap with sweet honey mayo, bulgogi loaded fries, kimchi pancakes, Korean corn dogs, and kimchi bacon fried rice. The hits of the night were absolute standouts.
The loaded fries were filling and worth their price - topped with juicy bulgogi marinated beef, a perfectly acidic kimchi, chewy pork belly, mozzarella cheese, gochu peppers, and a dollop of refreshing sour cream. The Korean corn dogs are a must-try too, as they’re probably the closest representation of the actual Korean dog - cheesy, rich, and crunchy. While the kimchi bacon fried rice and the bulgogi kimbap wasn’t anything crazy to write home about (it was your standard kimbap with meat, kimchi, egg, daikon and lettuce), the house sauce it came with definitely gave it the kick it desperately needed. If you’re in a rush and are looking for a quick snack, I would definitely recommend the kimchi bacon fried rice with an egg added. Perhaps most disappointing of the appetizers was the kimchi pancake, which just felt like slabs of warm cabbage without any interesting texture or flavors brought to the table.
Of the entrees, particularly the house bowls offered, I ordered a bulgogi ribeye bowl on my second visit with the No Spicy No Cry red pepper hot sauce. The bowls are good value for the amount of food that they come with - a clay pot filled with white rice, kimchi, soybean sprouts, carrots, spinach, cucumber, pickled onions, and your choice of protein (bulgogi ribeye, red pepper pork belly, dak tori chicken, katsu chicken, grilled shrimp, or tofu fried in spicy jorrim sauce). I absolutely loved the bulgogi combination. The sweet tanginess of the bulgogi marinade contrasted with the spicy sauce made for a variety of tastes. The texture difference of the fluffy rice, crunch of the bean sprouts and sour pickled onions, and the chew of the meat brought about an interesting sensation and unique taste with each spoonful.
All in all, Kogi gives a nice taste of what it feels like to wander the night markets of South Korea’s bigger cities. What it lacks in true authenticity it makes up for with its accessibility, prompt service, and tasty food. My only critique is that so much of the menu feels like a re-hash on kimchi in different forms (ex. kimchi rice, kimchi pancakes, kimchi kimbap, etc). So much so that the only dish on the menu worth ordering that would prevent you from tasting the same thing in multiple forms would have to be the house bowl and the Korean corn dog. It would serve the business well to include other ways to make those dishes unique. After all, Kogi already caters to the fusion audience with its cooking, it wouldn’t be compromising anything by adding more options that appear more effortful. Other than that detail, Kogi is a great eatery to head to for a casual night out or if you’re in the mood for some affordable Korean tapas.
Fun fact: Korean cuisine is governed by philosophy and science! The strong belief in yin and yang requires nutritionally balanced food. The five elements of Buddhism (wood, fire, earth, metal, and water) are represented in cooking by five colors (green, red, yellow, white, and blue). Colorful ingredients are blended to produce nutritious foods and appetite through the five essential tastes: salty, hot, sweet, bitter, and sour.
Food Quality: 7.0/10
Meal Value: 7.0/10
Dining Experience: 7.0/10
Overall: 7.0/10
