A Tale of Two Bagels (NYC Edition)
“liberty and tompkin square bagels become routine ‘good morning’ stops in manhattan.”
I’m really excited to write today’s review, because rather than talking about a specific restaurant we’ll be discussing one of my favorite foods and tasting a signature iteration of it: the famous New York bagel.
To be completely transparent, I was NOT a fan of bagels growing up. The ones we had from the grocery store growing up were far too dense and dry to be even remotely appetizing (lookin’ at you Thomas’ Breads). Forcefeeding some poor, unfortunate soul one of those bad boys without a glass of water could have been a secret interrogation technique that would have been deemed inhumane by the Geneva Convention. Luckily, I was saved from having to literally choke down those bready landmines when I attended the University of Virginia and became acquainted with a real bagel. One that treated me right, and loved me the way I loved it. Charlottesville natives know that Bodo’s Bagels isn’t just a place to pick up a breakfast sandwich — it’s a cult classic experience that is a must-visit anytime we’re in town. One of these days I’ll come back and visit you Bodo’s… One day…
*Ahem* In any case, the point of that little adage is that it was there at Bodo’s that I learned about what a freshly made, kettle-boiled bagel was all about and how it versatile it could really be as a lunch or even dinner time adventure. I still remember fondly how the line used to stretch out the door in the early morning hours at 4:00am as first-year students vyed for the ever elusive #0001 ticket to the dinner rush that came in when UVA’s hospital workers would come by and snag a bite before their night shift began. A bagel sandwich place is almost certainly healthier for you than any fast food joint, and just as convenient. In a city like New York where the average commuter walks around 2-5 miles per day, convenience is a key factor in deciding what to eat.
When people think of traditional New York bagels, there are a few characteristics that set those apart from the average storebought or other regional (ex. Montreal) bagels. A proper New York bagel is boiled first in New York water to help create a crunchy exterior. New York’s soft water (pH neutral with lots of minerals like calcium and magnesium) might help affect the gluten in the dough. While hard water toughens gluten, soft water makes the dough goopier to produce a more delicious, chewy bagel. The water in which the bagel is first boiled also includes a mixture of barley malt that gives the bagel its special taste, texture, and leathery skin. Only after the kettling are the toppings added and the bagels are sent off to be baked in the oven. It might seem like just a bunch of hype, but after having tried Montreal bagels, Bodo’s, and now NY-style bagels, I can honestly vouch that there is a distinct difference with each style of bagel having its unique properties to enjoy.
While visiting New York, I had the chance to get breakfast bagels from two fine establishments: Liberty Bagels in Midtown and Tompkin Square Bagels in the East Village. When I came to each location in the early morning on different weekdays, they both had long lines that stretched out the door onto the street. While Liberty Bagels seemed to be a casual, low-key shop that looked more like a grab-and-go, Tompkin Square felt like I was walking into a classic delicatessen. Cuts of smoked salmon were on display in the fridge case along with sides like potato salad an in both stores all of the flavors of cream cheese in tubs not unlike an ice cream store. At Tompkin Square the menu was written in red paint on white tiles near the ceiling behind the counter, adding to the sense I was back in an old-school 1980s diner, while Liberty had its menu on blackboards written in different colored chalk reminescent of a schoolyard playground. In either case, these stores had some real personality behind them!
Orders were placed and the tickets were called pretty quickly. During breakfast rush, a runner from inside the store would bring our food in paper bags outside to those waiting on the sidewalk, making it easy for a commuter to leave quickly and eat as they walked. My orders were a Reuben sandwich on pumpernickel at Liberty and a cream cheese with lox, tomato, and capers on an everything bagel at Tompkin Square, and let me tell you: They were amazing. The pastrami and sauerkraut with horseradish was an impeccable and tasty blend with each ingredient coming out and shining prominently, yet not overpowering each other. As someone who’d never had a Reuben before, this one really set the standards high for me going forward. My go-to for any bagel place is a cream cheese and lox variation, and the triple-smoked Atlantic salmon from Tompkin blew my mind with how the wood-fire scent could penetrate the fish that well. Paired with a healthy dose of their specialty cream cheese, it would have been a juicy and perfect start to any New Yorker’s day. Both locations offered different takes on the same New York classic, but in the end stayed true to the spirit of what it meant to have a New York style bagel. Each bagel ran about $12-16, which is fairly pricey, but when taking into consideration how large and filling each one was it actually isn’t unreasonable as it constituted its own meal.
At the end of the day, a bagel is a bagel. But New York bagels feel special in a way that most others don’t. Whether that be due to the New York tap water and barley malt or the exciting anticipation of being in a crowded line waiting for your name and order to be called, trying a classic New York bagel might be one of the best decisions you’ll ever make, even if only just for the opportunity to cross it off your bucket list.
Food Quality: 8.0/10
Meal Value: 6.5/10
Dining Experience: 8.0/10
Overall: 7.5/10
